Evga forums plus#
Evga forums tv#

While Nichicon is a really good brand, APFC circuits are known to roast even good capacitor brands over time. Additionally, if you have one of those component testers, remove the primary caps and check their capacitance and ESR. With the multimeter hooked to their leads, you should NOT see any low resistance across them whatsoever after a few moments of them charging up. Check the two big electrolytic capacitors for short-circuit with a multimeter. It's best to remove it from the circuit to check its resistance. In any case, the NTC should have a few Ohms of 'cold' resistance across its leads when measured with a multimeter, and slightly lower resistance when hot/warm. Some PSUs will even have a relay to bypass it to further reduce losses, but I don't see one in this PSU. but then as it warms up due to current flowing through it, its resistance decreases to decrease heat losses through it. The green disc component is an NTC thermistor (a resistor whose resistance decreases with temperature.) It's used to stop large inrush currents from going into the big caps when the PSU is first plugged in. Check the bridge rectifier (BD1) diodes If the former and/or if it measure low-resistance across its leads, remove from the circuit. I can't tell if the dark spots on it are because it's blown or because there's black silicone glue on it. Check the yellow 'disc component' next to it - that's an MOV, which is used for clamping surges on the input line. It should have low resistance and not be open-circuit. Next, start checking all components on the input and the primary side. Should be 0 or very low (under 2-3V, in which case short their leads to drain the rest.) I'm sure they would be at this point, but it's always worth checking before doing any measurements. Start by making sure the primary caps are discharged. yup, most or all of those parts are part of the APFC booster circuit. Corporate mismanagement seems to have been prevalent, eating whatever margins were left.ġ6GB G.Skill RIPJAWS 3600 / 16GB G.Hmmm. They also WAY overstocked on GPUs, twice, for both the 10 series, and it seems they were doing it again with the 3000s. Of course, it seems like there was bad blood between EVGA and Nvidia, and EVGA had been dropping the ball lately, with multiple product recalls, QC failures, and the infamous exploding 3080/3090 fiasco, where 99% of failed cards were EVGA cards. Why would you make multiple SKUs, each with different board designs, coolers, ece if you were not making money on them? Something doesnt add up, and never did. If there was no money in it, then asus/gigabyte/MSI wouldnt be rushing out 9 different models of these cards. They blamed nvidia for this, with nvidia setting MSRP and such, and not allowing them to go above a certain level (we're just gonna ignore how these cards all sold well over MSRP for YEARS during lockdown, including on vendor websites? K ). It was ONLY the 30 which supposedly he couldnt make money on. That being said, if their motherboards do go away, it wouldnt surprise me, this entire affair seemed like EVGA's CEO wanted to wrap things up without wrapping things up.Īs for GPU prices, remember that EVGA said cards like the 3050, 3060, and 3070 were all profitable to sell.

Remember, EVGA tried to lay off nobody as their GPU market imploded. The way I read it, this is more 'EVGA employees with nothing to do resign'.

Evga forums plus#

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Evga forums tv#

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